5 Common Bespoke Mistakes (and how to avoid them)

We all make mistakes, it’s human nature. Unfortunately when you make a mistake in bespoke tailoring, you could be wasting thousands of dollars. Bespoke is by all means an investment. You are paying a premium for garments that fit spectacularly and will last forever (provided you stay the same shape, more or less!).

Many of us have made rash decisions when buying clothes, so it’s important to begin your bespoke journey by understanding the do’s and don’ts, allowing you to make the most of your hard earned cash.

1. Not knowing what you like

This sounds far more simple than it actually is. Bespoke tailoring is often the ‘end point’ for those into dressing well. You’ve likely tried ready-to-wear; it doesn’t fit you perfectly or you don’t like the styles available. You may have even tried custom or made to measure (MTM); there are still fit problems, still style limitations, and quality control issues. Through this journey, you should have built an understanding of what you like. Be it the fit, certain fabrics, or design details, you’ll want to have developed a keen sense of preference before commissioning your first bespoke garments. In the beginning, a tailor can only advise you so much, but you’ll have a better understanding of what you like.

How do you develop this? Well, experiment and try new things and see what sticks. Learning what you like is a personal journey but you can look to others for inspiration. For example, our Instagram (askokeyig) highlights countless different ways to style classic menswear and the different design details you could choose from. Use pages like AskOkey as a ‘style guideline’ to build up your preference.

2. Standing unnaturally for measurements

Ok, so you’ve taken the plunge and are getting your measurements done. We see this two ways: the AskOkey way from the comfort of your home, recording measurements yourself or with a friend/partner. Or you’ve gone to a traditional bespoke house and the tailors are measuring you. Either way, standing naturally is imperative.

It’s common when capturing measurements to try and correct your posture. Don’t do that. A well-tailored garment fits your unique body shape. That means taking into account every quirk and flaw. Not everyone has perfect posture, so don’t skew your measurements by trying to correct it on the spot. It won’t work!

So when you’re getting measured, relax. Don’t correct your posture. Stand in your natural posture. Only then will your measurements be correct.

3. Going over-the-top with design

When you go bespoke, you can be spoilt for choice. In fact, many find it overwhelming when considering the amount of options. There’s a lot to choose from, but that doesn’t mean you should choose everything. Keep things simple at first, and don’t throw every design detail at one garment. You’ll have plenty of chances in the future to try out different lapel styles/sizes, pocket shapes, lining details on further garments.

A lot of people are like a kid in a candy shop when designing their first bespoke garment. Our advice is to come prepared. Understand what the garment is trying to achieve aesthetically and think about what details fit the bill beforehand. This will help you from making last-minute design choices that you (and your wallet…) may regret.

4. Rushing into things

Bespoke is a process. You don’t want to rush it. Many people will go ‘crazy’ after their first commission and start splurging, commissioning every idea that comes to mind. Our advice: slow down. Bespoke is typically made by hand, and handmade garments need sufficient time (we’re talking months) to truly settle it. Particularly for jackets, the handset canvassing and padding needs to be worn in. Only after this will you truly be able to judge the garments fit, after it’s tried and tested.

A benefit to slowing things down is saving money, and reducing the risk of poor decisions (this goes hand-in-hand with number 3 on this list). Many of the team at AskOkey can attest to this. Our founder, Okey (aka Proff), affectionately calls this ‘tuition’, which is a good way to put it! You pay for the mistakes that you will hopefully learn from. That being said, it is best avoided. That money can be well-invested in properly planned commissions.

5. Not choosing the right tailor (for your style)

Every tailor will have some degree of ‘house cut’ or style. It is important you do your research and find which tailor works well for the style you are going for. This ensures that you’ll be able to actualise the idea you’ve envisioned. For example, trying to get a modern, slim-cut Italian tailor to create a drape cut suit is a tall task! It is worth researching the different styles of tailoring and seeing what fits your personal style and context best. For example, research Italy and their many regional styles, English cuts, Asia’s hybrid styles, or even American tailoring. The possibilities are endless, but you’ll quickly find what resonates with you!

At AskOkey, we are creating a very particular type of silhouette. The classically designed, full cut, drape suit is an incredibly elegant style in menswear and we’ve worked tirelessly to create our own unique interpretation. That being said, all bespoke tailors will have flexibility in their style. For instance, we are able to produce slimmer garments based on your preference. The customer is always right! Our house cut is significantly fuller than what you see on the market, but we are happy to work with you to develop your own ‘vision’ and make it become reality. 

Still not sure?

If you are considering bespoke and still not sure how to go ahead, get in touch with us at AskOkey. Our team has vast experience in classic menswear and are more than happy to help.

As part of our bespoke service, we will run you through everything over several consultations to make sure you get the most out of your AskOkey bespoke garments. We promise to make it easy for you.