Proportions: Why they matter 

Proportions are, strictly speaking, the distribution of mass or volume over an area (two or three dimensional). Proportions in clothing are the relative sizes of parts of the jacket and trousers, all contributing to the outline or contours of the man.

Proportions can be wrong, or right. Every 3-D object has proportions (one part is bigger than the other). When we talk of mens’ proportions, we mean, generally, the ratio between the upper and lower parts of the body and the line from shoulder to cuff. The right proportions create a sense of balance, and emphasise the figure of the man wearing the garment. They work vertically as well as horizontally. 

What factors affect the proportions of a garment or assembly of garments? First, proportions should not be confused with style. A jacket or suit may be cut in a certain way, accentuating the shoulders or narrowing the waist. Regardless, the style contributes or should contribute to the garment’s proportions.

What we see in the picture is that the jacket and trousers have to be aligned. A baggy jacket and narrow trousers will look somehow out of kilter. Similarly, a tight-fitting jacket and loose trousers unbalance the proportions.

The key is the ratio. The “golden ratio” gives us one third above the waist and two thirds below it. By “waist”, we mean a man’s natural waist, just above his navel. We also want to see a narrower outline below the waist (hips and legs), compared to the width of the shoulders – at least a straight line downwards from the shoulders or edge of the lapels. Many of us do not have that sought-after inverted triangle shape, but we can still achieve a straight line from shoulder to cuff, in a well-designed jacket and trousers.

Why does it matter? A combination of jacket and trousers, a suit or a casual jacket and pants always looks better when the golden ratio is achieved. Even if people have not heard of the ratio, they know it when they see it.

When buying a jacket, think about how it will suit the trousers that you want to wear with it. Similarly, when looking at trousers, consider your jackets, and avoid buying narrow trousers if your jackets are all loose. This means keeping track of what you have, and making sure that they suit each other.

Alternatively, consider buying jackets and trousers together, with the intention of creating an outfit. You might do this with ready-to-wear, or take the next step and go for bespoke clothes, where your proportions will be assured by the tailor, on the basis of your measurements.

This is the most effective way of achieving proportion and balance. Of course, it comes at a cost, but so does everything if you want to get it right.