Not necessarily everyone’s first choice for bespoke clothing reading matter, and not usually top-of-mind, as they say, but a critical component of the whole.
Let’s start with linings. A jacket’s lining affects the structure and shape of the garment, and a well-made lining will make the jacket last longer and wear better. Linings are traditionally made of natural fabrics (silk or cupro), which have good breathing properties and wear well. Silk looks magnificent and is smooth, so your jacket will not stick to your shirt, but it is less durable than cupro.
Cupro, otherwise popularly referred to as Bemberg, or Bemberg silk (patented Japanese trade name), is made of cotton fibre cellulose. First produced towards the end of the 19th century by rayon manufacturer JP Bemberg, it was licensed by Shitagau Noguchi in 1928, and Nogushi came up with artificial fibre, “Bemberg”, starting production in 1931. Today, Bemberg is used by the finest tailors and makers of high-end RTW menswear. Two features of Bemberg make it the fabric of choice for linings: it absorbs moisture very well, and breathes easily – so it is perfect for jackets and trousers, ensuring that garments feel supremely comfortable.
In contrast to cupro, rayon and viscose are made of wood cellulose (e.g., eucalyptus or birch), and have been around since the mid 19th century. Rayon was first produced commercially in 1910 by the American Viscose Company, as “artificial silk”. Rayon is available as viscose rayon, silk-like, modal rayon, which feels a bit like cotton, and lyocell or Tencel, smooth and breathable.
When visiting your tailor, ask what fabric he uses for lining. If he says “polyester”, beware. Polyester does not breath well so your jacket will feel hot. A blend of rayon and polyester will be fine, but 100 percent Cupro is best.
What colour should you choose for a jacket lining? Consider the colour of your jacket fabric and go for a variation on that. For example. If your jacket is light grey, the lining could be light blue, dark grey or light green, depending on the type of grey in your jacket. Alternatively, you could go for something radical, like this, from Rampley of London:
