Commenters on AskOkey’s social media posts have recently been questioning the length of AskOkey’s jackets: they are too long, many have argued. So just how long should a jacket be?
First, the jacket is part of an ensemble. It is not a separate piece, worn in isolation. Thus, when discussing jacket length, we should be talking about the jacket-trouser combination. A safe rule of thumb, often quoted by the Proff, is that the jacket’s length is largely determined by the width of the trousers, because the jacket starts a vertical line, descending from shoulders to feet.
That said, there are a couple of other rules to keep in mind: the jacket must cover the wearer’s seat; and it must clear the crotch, in front. Men with long torsos thus need longer jackets. Another safe rule of thumb is that the jacket hem should be no lower than the knuckles of your hand, as in the picture below:
The very short, slim-fitting jackets that one sees today can work on very thin men, but most of us are safer with traditional lengths. AskOkey’s jackets are just that – traditional length, creating a silhouette from shoulders on downwards.
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We have to wonder why so many YouTube and Instagram commenters think that the jackets are too long. It could be the camera angle in the videos, or perhaps they are just accustomed to seeing much shorter jackets. Certainly, in the picture below, the double breasted jacket looks longer than what is fashionable today, but that is partly an illusion, created by the double breasted cut and the fact that the trousers are of the same material as the jacket.
As with almost everything that we do at AskOkey, jackets cut to classic proportions are just one of the ways that we swim against the tide and create the opportunity for men to look as elegant as they can.
Do you make made to measure custom suits
Hello Philip, all of our garments are fully bespoke, we do not make Made to Measure. Our suits are handmade from scratch using a unique paper pattern for each customer, and each one takes between 60-80 hours of handwork to produce. Drop us an email at [email protected] and we’d be delighted to assist you. Thank you
How is that possible to build a bespoke pattern without meeting and measuring your customers? Looks like MTM to me, even if you do full canvas and/or hand stitching.
Hi Xanxi, apologies for the late response. We are able to draft each client’s individual bespoke pattern through the numerous fitting garments sent. The first draft is based of the submitted measurements, after they have been checked by our tailors and confirmed with the client. Then, a fitting garment (Test of Fit) is made. We conduct our fittings through photo and video, and do not begin the finished garment without perfecting the pattern. We do not use a preset, block MTM pattern. All of our jackets are made with a full canvas, basted and attached by hand. I hope this helps.
Hey Xanxi, great question.
We create a pattern and block completely from scratch for each and every customer. Bespoke is all about the pattern and how it’s made, the only difference between us and a brick-and-mortar tailor is that we speak over video call instead of over a coffee for the first consultation. Learn more by speaking to our team: https://kingofdrape.com/consultation
This is spot on. Most guys wear suit and sports jackets (and too short trousers) that look like they’re wearing their little brother’s clothes.
When the jacket is the correct length, as outlined by Okey, the look is an elegance you notice immediately. A classic example can be seen in almost any pictures of Edward VIII.
Couldn’t have said it better myself. Thank you sir.
I have a general “rule of thumb”- you know the traditional shape of a rear jean pocket? The jacket should terminate at the bottom of the trapezoid-shaped pocket. I think this is a good approximation. At least what I think is ideal now. It entends a little lower than the bottom of the butt.
That is highly respective to the pair of jeans you’re wearing and the proportions of the pocket which will vary from pair to pair. A better ‘Rule of Thumb’ (quite literally) is to make sure the length of the jacket is within the first and second knuckles of your thumb, when your arm is by your side. Again, this won’t work for every gentleman since everyone’s proportions are different.
At AskOkey, we take multiple factors into account; The specific shape, and proportions of the wearer dictate the perfect jacket length. Thank you!
I think the same thing about the knuckle rule- it is too dependent on arm length which can vary greatly from person to person. It has never worked for me and my wingspan is about equal to my height which should be “normal”. For me I look at a pair of Levi’s jeans and the pockets extend a little beyond the bottom of the butt. About the perfect spot for me.
Peace
Could not agree with you more.
Keep doing what you gentleman. And do so with the comfort of knowing that a broad contingent of men understand the importance of elegance that must accompany the title of “gentleman”…
Nothing speaks to that elegance louder than sartorial choices. The classics are called classic for a reason.
Remember style never goes out of fashion.
Absolutely C Wise. Classic style principles and proportions are what make AskOkey possible. Thank you for your kind comment.
Suggestion for GENIE.
Please consider a field for the date an item was purchased and a field for the name of the store where the purchase was made. Perhaps a third field for the city/state/country would also be nice. I live in Spain and also shop in the USA and other countries in Europe. So, a record of where I bought my items would be nice.
Thank you for your consideration.
Hey David, thank you for your thoughtful suggestion, that would be a useful addition. We’ve forwarded this to our digital team for review.
Thank you.
Jackets of suits or stand-alone Odd, are purposefully made shorter due to current trends.
I fully understand the principles involved as Okey conveys, however, as we well know, mass producers want people to keep on buying so create fashion trends that are not necessarily classic.