The peak lapel

Among the debates in the great parliament of menswear is the relative merits of the peak lapel. Even here at AskOkey, the topic has sparked discussion (not heated argument, but what you could call a robust exchange of views). Proff broke with tradition when he and Hashim designed a peak lapel single breasted suit with three-roll-two configuration earlier this year, and Proff had one done up in Agnelli check.

Should you ask for a peak lapel from your tailor, or should you stick to the tried and true notch? Traditionally, double breasteds always have peak lapels, except for a brief period during the 80s when this write had a double breasted suit with notch lapels, and black dinner suits tend towards peak lapels, even when single breasted.

For lounge suits and odd jackets, peak lapels are a matter of preference: they tend to look what might be called “urban”, so a peak lapel tweed suit is probably not a good choice; pin stripe or plain worsteds and flannels can handle peak lapels well, however.

Two-button, one-button or three-button with peak lapels? The choice is yours, but bear in mind that a three-button peak lapel risks making the lapels look like little wings, while a two-button peak lapel makes the lapel line look longer – useful if you are on the shorter side.

The dinner jacket in the picture shows a two-button with peak lapels. They point out and away from the centre, but the jacket gorge is low enough to prevent them from looking like the wings of a fighter jet.

This one, a dark business suit, has smaller peak lapels on a two-button configuration. The lapels are slightly narrower than they are on the dinner jacket, and the diagonal sweep is carefully calibrated to look restrained and appropriate for the purpose of the suit (office). 

Consider a peak lapel for your next order, whether you are an AskOkey customer or not. Avoid the peak lapel on tweeds or casual suits (not advised for linen, because they tend to curl).

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