At AskOkey we believe that there is an art to mastering the perfect suit, jacket or trousers. Beyond the precision of structured lines and the comfort of a well-fitted ensemble, one often-overlooked, crucial aspect is colour.
The right colours can elevate your tailored look from good to exceptional, and this is where an understanding of the colour wheel comes into play. If you rush into this pursuit without understanding the colours that work well for you, you run the risk of wasting an opportunity, even with the best fabric, and your face looking washed out or even worse, anonymous amid the crowd.
The Basics of the Color Wheel
Before we delve into the art of using colours in tailoring, it’s crucial to grasp the fundamentals of the colour wheel. In styling for bespoke tailoring, we often work with the three primary colours: red, blue, and yellow. These primary colours are the building blocks of all other colours, and understanding how they interact is key.
Here is a colour wheel from deep in the vaults (Today’s Clothing, 1949). Surprisingly little has changed in terms of what you can combine.
This wheel shows primary, secondary / binary and intermediate colours. Thus, the familiar red and blue (think blue suit, red tie), are primary combinations. Yellow fits there as well, but can be too bright for some skin tones (see below).
Grey, of various shades is not really a colour. All greys, and there are many, are variations on black and white. Possibly for that reason, just about anything goes with grey.
Harmonious Colour Combinations
To create a harmonious and balanced look, consider analogous and complementary colours:
Analogous Colours: These are colours that sit next to each other on the colour wheel. In the world of clothes, think of combining shades like navy (jacket) and royal blue (trousers) or charcoal (suit) and dove grey (shirt). These combinations are subtle yet sophisticated, creating a pleasing visual harmony. The colours are within the same family so they work well together. Examples would be pairing a pale pink shirt with a deep burgundy tie. However, do not under any circumstances combine colours that are almost the same (e.g., red and burgundy). Make sure that they are in contrasting shades (light blue and dark blue, dark brown and light brown).
Complementary Colours: These are colours that are opposite each other on the colour wheel. Pairing complementary colours can make a bold and striking statement. For instance, a deep burgundy tie (secondary) with a forest green suit (primary) can create a captivating contrast. Orange and teal are also contrasting colours, but they are unlikely to be very suitable for menswear, except possibly for sports clothes or when you need to make a radical statement.
The Importance of Skin Tone
In the world of bespoke tailoring, it’s essential to consider your skin tone when selecting colours. Traditional tailoring often emphasises earthy and muted tones that complement a variety of complexions (think shades of dark browns, grey and classic navy). Here’s a tip: The level of contrast in your outfit should mimic the level of contrast between your hair and complexion. If you have dark hair and fair skin you have more freedom in choosing analogous colour combinations such as dark grey and white, or deep midnight blue and sky blue. Those endowed with brighter hair or less contrast between hair and complexion should go for brighter, richer shades of the same colour combinations (bright navy or royal blue jacket with a light blue shirt, or pairing a mid-to-light grey suit with a pale blue or white shirt) , thus decreasing the level of contrast and keeping their face centre-stage.
Cool Undertones: If you have cool undertones in your skin, consider colours like deep navy, charcoal grey, and olive green. These shades can enhance your natural complexion and create a balanced look.
Warm Undertones: For those with warm undertones, earthy tones like camel, chocolate brown, and forest green can be particularly flattering. These colours can bring out the warmth in your skin and make your outfit look more elegant (strange, but true).
The Importance of Fabric
As you may have noticed, colour can’t easily be separated from fabric. For example, a light blue gabardine will look brighter than light blue tweed, and in different environments and lighting the contrast is even greater. Flannel tends to absorb light, unlike mohair wool blends, which reflect it.
Accessorising with Color
Tailoring is not limited to suits and jackets alone; it extends to accessories as well. The use of colourful accessories such as ties, pocket squares, and cufflinks can add a pop of personality to your ensemble. When selecting accessories, remember that they should complement the overall colour scheme of your outfit (contrasting or analogous).
Conclusion
In the world of bespoke tailoring, the power of colour should never be underestimated. The right colours can accentuate your features, enhance your complexion, and convey a sense of style and confidence. Whether you’re leaning towards analogous or complementary colours, always remember to consider your skin tone and the occasion when choosing your tailored masterpiece.
The colour wheel is a tool that allows us to craft not just clothing but a statement of elegance and individuality. So, the next time you’re selecting fabrics for your tailored wardrobe, embrace the power of colour, and dress your best with confidence and flair.
Would like to get the blue blazer asap