At AskOkey, we encourage everyone to consider bespoke or MTM. Why? First because that is what we do, at least for now. Second, because men who value their appearance really do need to wear something that fits well, is made of decent fabric and lasts over the long term.
Something like this, in fact. Naturally, your correspondent is slightly biased.
That said, does it have to be bespoke or MTM? Are there readymade suits and other garments that would meet the criteria of your discerning clothes horse? There could be. After all, RTW suits, jackets and other things have been made in factories and sold across all market tiers for over a century, so RTW can’t be all bad . Some of the most famous names in readymade, Austin Reed, Burton’s, Burberry’s, for example, are known for quality and their products sell in the vintage market as well as new from their current production (see Burton’s label at the top of this post. “Quality Tailored” really did mean tailored, even though strictly speaking it was RTW).
Not AR’s current production, but it does give you a sense of what is possible.
What are the limits of good RTW, and are there any non-negotiable features that RTW cannot provide, as compared to MTM and bespoke?
The first point likely to be made is “fit”. And, it must be admitted, that a good RTW fit is still a ways off from what can be achieved by MTM and, even more so, by bespoke. Shoulder alignment, posture and odd proportions such as very long arms or a narrow waist and exaggerated drop cannot really be managed when producing for the masses. Granted, variations such as a 44 long, 42 short and so forth can go a long way in meeting most men’s needs but if you are an outlier, RTW will never be quite right.
How about design? There is no reason that RTW suits and other garments cannot be well designed. The sky is the limit as far as design goes. If you can find it, that is. Keep in mind that RTW manufacturers produce for large markets, even at the top end, so tend to be fairly conservative or at least aligned to broad fashion trends. The more unique designs, particularly classic or heritage designs, tend to be limited to repro brands and niche suppliers, with quality varying considerably.
Workmanship? RTW can be extremely well made; in fact, you can buy RTW garments that have actually been handmade. So this is not necessarily a reason to turn up one’s nose at RTW as a matter of policy. However, handmade RTW is likely to cost as much as, if not more than MTM and possibly bespoke.
In conclusion: RTW is a good choice if you have an average build, want something immediately and can find well made RTW at a reasonable price. And, if the maker can give you the design that you want, within the limits of RTW, go for it by all means.